Nepal Trekking – Annapurna Base Camp

From this glacier basin, known as the Annapurna Sanctuary, the Modi Khola knifes its way south in a narrow gorge fully 3660m deep. Further south, the gorge opens up into a wide and fertile valley, the domain of the Gurungs. The middle and upper portions of Modi Khola offer some of the best short trekking routes in Nepal, and the valley is located so that these treks can be easily combined with treks into the Kali Gandaki region to the west.

The combination of pretty villages and farmland at Ghaundrung, set against the panorama of high peaks beyond makes this one of the most picturesque of treks. Natural hot spring at Jhinudanda.

Itinerary:

DAY            PLACE                                ALTITUDE

Day 1    Arrive in Kathmandu – Transfer to Hotel   1,355 m

Day 2   Sightseeing in Kathmandu – Afternoon free 1,355 m

Day 3   Kathmandu to Pokhara                      820 m

Day 4   Pokhara – Nayapul – Tikhe Dhungha         1,540 m

Day 5   Tikhe Dhungha to Ghorepani                2,750 m

Day 6   Gohrepani – Poon Hill – Tadapani          3,193 m

Day 7   Tadapani to Chhomrong                     2,340 m

Day 8   Chhomrong to Doban                        2,335 m

Day 9   Doban to Deurali                          2,920 m

Day 10 Deurali – MBC – Annapurna BC (ABC)       4,130 m

Day 11  Annapurna Base Camp  to Himalaya         2,505 m

Day 12  Himalaya to Chhomrong

Day 13  Chhomrong to Jhinu Danda                 2,340 m

Day 14  Jhinu Danda to Ghandruk                  1,940 m

Day 15  Ghandruk – Nayapul – Pokhara             820 m

Day 16  Pokhara to Kathmandu                     1,355 m

Day 17  At Leisure in Kathmandu                  1,355 m

Day 18  End of Trip – Flight back Home           1,355 m

* Source :  – http://www.mountmerutreks.blogspot.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Kinga’s Summits :

Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;

Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;

Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007

Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008  – first Polish woman

Manaslu (8156 m) October 5, 2008  – first Polish woman

Kangchenjunga 8586 m) May 18, 2009  – first Polish woman

Chronicles of the expedition, part 10.

Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga.

On 18th of May Kinga Baranowska as the first Polish woman (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warsaw) summited Kangchenjunga (8586 m) which is located in Nepal.

Kangchenjunga have been summited in high winds – however, descent on Kang is reportedly very difficult.

Details are also expected on the summiteers’ safe return in C4.

* Official site : – http://www.kingabaranowska.com/

** – all my post, select category :  – Kinga Baranowska

Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

18 Maja 2009 Kinga Baranowska (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warszawa) stanęła, w późnych godzinach popołudniowych czasu lokalnego, jako pierwsza Polka na szczycie Kangchenjunga 8586 m) położonym w Nepalu.

Kronika wyprawy cz.10.

Relacja – Kinga Baranowska:

Jestem po. Na szczycie stanęłam późno, Góra niewyobrażalnie trudna i wymagająca, dla mnie najtrudniejsza ze wszystkich, na których do tej pory byłam. Jestem ekstremalnie zmęczona, straciłam tez głos od zimnego wiatru, ale tez szczęśliwa. Czeka mnie jeszcze trudne zejście do bazy z obozu IV. Górę tą dedykuje Wandzie Rutkiewicz. Więcej informacji jak zejdę do bazy.

18.05.2009

Jej atak odbywał się w grupie blisko 20 himalaistów z całego świata – głównie z Hiszpanii. Szturmowy obóz IV na wysokości 7700 m Kinga opuściła 30 minut po północy. A szczyt zdobyła po 16 godzinach wspinaczki o godz. 16.45. W ataku szczytowym towarzyszył jej Juanjo Garra. Kinga jest już bezpieczna w obozie 4.

Atak szczytowy odbywał się w bardzo trudnych warunkach, w potwornym wietrze i pyłówkach,  a do czwórki szli w śniegu po kolana.

Kinga jest pierwszą Polką na szczycie Kangchenjungi, jest też również czwartą kobietą, która zdobyła tę trudną górę. Kangchenjunga należy do tzw. wysokich ośmiotysięczników, a trudności w kopule szczytowej sięgają II i III stopnia trudności.

Kindze udało się to co nie udało się Wandzie Rutkiewicz, która zginęła 17 lat temu właśnie chcąc zdobyć szczyt Kangchenjungi.

Wchodząc na swój szósty ośmiotysięcznik Kinga zrównała się w „posiadaniu” z Anną Czerwińską. Daleko w przodzie są jednak czołowe himalaistki świata. Tego samego dnia na Kangchendzöngę weszła również Baskijka Edurne Pasaban, dla której był to już 12. szczyt w pogoni za Koroną Himalajów.

* posty o wyprawach Kingi na mojej stronie kliknij : Kinga Baranowska

Wkrótce album zdjęć z wyprawy – zapraszam.

** poprzednie posty :

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.9.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.8.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.7.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.6.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.5.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.4.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.3.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.2.

- Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej cz.1.

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 4. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz. 4. /Version english and polish/

- video – Kinga Baranowska w Kathmandu Kangch 2009

Sponsorzy wyprawy.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Exploring Kathmandu – Nepal, new video on You Tube.

Video and photos of visit to Kathmandu – Nepal during March/April 2009. We enjoyed the ancient religious and cultural capital city of Nepal with family and friends from Brazil. The gentle Hindu and Buddhist people of this beautiful country coexist peacefully. We noticed a heavy presence of government and Maoist troops as the country continues UN brokered peace negociations.

* Source : – http://www.youtube.com/

* zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

National Parks of Nepal (click to enlarge).

The Terai lowlands are defined by a belt of well-watered floodplains stretching from the Indian border northward to the first slopes of the Bhabhar and the Siwalik Range. This is the richest habitat in the land with tall grasslands interspersed with riverine and hardwood sal forest . Here one can see wildlife such as the swamp deer, musk deer, black buck, blue bull, the royal Bengal tiger, gharial and marsh mugger crocodile and the last of a breed of Asiatic wild buffalo. This area is also rich in birdlife with a variety of babbles and orioles, koels and drongos, peacocks and floricans, and a multitude of wintering wildfowl. There are five protected areas in Nepal – Koshi Tappu and Parsa in the east, Sukla Phanta and Dhorpatan for hunting in the west and Shivapuri in the. mid-mountain region. The Churia, also known as the. siwalik, is the southern most range of the Himalaya. No where do they rise above 1,220 meters, This range is famous for fossil deposits of Pleistocene mammals, among them 10 species of elephants, 6 rhinoceros, hippopotamus, saber-toothed cats, various antelopes and primates such as the orang-utan, long extinct in the subcontinent, Situated north of the Churia are broad, low valleys of the inner Terai know as the Doons. These valleys are not unlike the outer plains with tall elephant grass, swamps and ox-bow lakes where the last of the one-horned rhinoceros survive. Royal Chitwan National Park in the Inner Terai of central Nepal is the first and best protected area in the kingdom. Once one of the most famous big game hunting areas in Asia. Chitwan now offers protection to a large array of mammals such as the. one-horned rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, sloth bear and the gaur (wild bison) as well as more than 400 species of birds.

Higher in the north between 2000 and 3500 meters lies the Mahabharat Range with its oak crowned crests. The hills of this midland are covered by a moist temperate forest of deodar, oak, maple and birch in which are found deer, ghoral serow, leopard and monkey, The gorgeous multi colored lmpeyan pheasant (Nepal’s national bird) is also found here with other endangered birds like the koklas and Cheer Pheasants. Protected areas in this zone include Khapted National Park in the Far-West, Dhorpatan Hunting reserve, North-west of Pokhara and Shivapuri Wildlife Sanctuary near Kathmandu.

Higher still, nearer the snowline, are the alpine mountain flanks which are the haunt of snow leopard, which preys on blue sheep and the Himalayan tahr. Rarely seen are the wolf, black bears and lynx. The Sherpas, Manabga, and Dolpa-bas are some of those who farm and graze their livestock on the high mountain pastures. Langtang, Sagarmatha (Everest), Shey-Phoksundo and Rara National Parks are the protected high altitude areas of Nepal.

* Source :  –http://www.mountmerutreks.blogspot.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Most of the spots are situated to the north and northwest of the valley, in the vicinity of the Nagarjun Royal forest and the shiva puri watershed and wildlife reserve. Your rock climbing trip can therefore be combined with bird watching, game watching and experiencing some of the last of the valley’s wilds. Nagajuna is a verdant hill located to the northwest of the Swyambhu Stupa and believed to be the place where the famous Buddhist philosopher. Nagarjun meditated.

The cliff here is located inside the Nagarjun forest reserve suitable for both beginners and wall rats. The limestone rock face is about 12-15 m high and bears the remnants of earlier climbs. what purists would describe as “piton scarred ” or a defaced face. You could always do a free climb if experienced enough or use the friendlier chocks.

Another interesting rock wall is situated on the slope of Shivapuri hill to the north of Kathmandu . Drive approx. 9 km up to Budhailkantha, the shrine of the sleeping Bishnu, then walk west from the bus stop the Vishnumati stream through terraced fields and enters the Shivapuri Watershed and Wildlife reserve. The granite faces here lie scattered about, and the big cliff in the center is equipped with a single route.

The climbing site is best place for beginners, intermediate and professional climbers and has wide range of routes, Nagarjun is located 3 Km North West of Kathmandu Valley which is of about 30 min driving distance from the entrance gate we will hike for another 30 min to reach our climbing spot where we will practice our skill and learn the new techniques for Rock climbing, lunch will be served during the climbing.

* Source :  – http://www.kashualdesigns.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

JON Krakauer’s account of his involvement in the disastrous expedition to Everest in 1996 is much more than a straightforward report of the ascent and descent that led to the deaths of his fellow climbers.

Among the many topics covered in Into Thin Air are Krakauer’s background and the factors that led to his mountain-climbing obsession. There are brief histories of the surveyors who measured the height of Everest and the mountaineers who tackled the mountain, Sir Edmund Hillary included.

Krakauer also comments on the commercialisation of Everest and the debate about whether ascending the peak carrying a supply of oxygen is seen as a valid method by climbing purists.

With all these balls in the air, Krakauer for the most part successfully links a number of topics to emphasise his themes.

Take, for example, the first section of Chapter 10 – “Lhotse Face, April 29, 1996, 23,400 feet (7132 metres)”.

Krakauer prefaces this and every chapter with a quote, mostly from books about Everest or mountain climbing. In this chapter, he quotes writer Walt Unsworth on Everest. Unsworth says although Europeans understand mountain climbing as a sport, “there was no such acceptance in America”.

When Krakauer is 305 metres up the Lhotse Face, he goes into excruciating detail about how he is feeling as he climbs: “I slid my jumar up the fixed line with a gloved hand, rested my weight on the device to draw two burning, laboured breaths, then I moved my left foot up and stamped the crampon into the ice, desperately sucked in another two lungfuls of air; planted my right foot next to my left, inhaled and exhaled from the bottom of my chest, inhaled and exhaled again; and slid the jumar up the rope one more time.”

Writing such as this draws us into the painstaking and painful process of breathing at high altitude. So much of the book is about breathing the “thin air” referred to in the title – and, in this instance, Krakauer’s breaths are described as “burning” and “laboured”. Air is desperately “sucked in” by Krakauer and his repetition of the words “inhaled” and “exhaled” communicates a sense of panic in an everyday process that most of us hardly notice.

Krakauer builds on this description of tortured breathing toemphasise the paragraphs that follow. He says mountaineering is not about “adrenalin junkies chasing a righteous fix”. The author believes that this is “a fallacy, at least in the case of Everest” and that “climbing Everest was primarily about enduring pain”. Krakauer is certainly not naive in thinking that some climbers have less than noble motives in their quest to scale Everest, such as money or fame.

He also believes that Everest can bring out the best in his team mates. At this point in the chapter, he describes the conservative Dr Seaborn Beck Weathers, who experiences intense pain (his new boots were not worn in and had “chewed his feet to hamburger”), as tough, driven and stoic. This was eventually borne out when, near the end of the expedition, Weathers was left for dead but managed to survive a fierce snowstorm against unimaginable odds. On his return to the US, Weathers lost all his fingers and his thumb on his left hand because of frost bite. His nose was amputated but reconstructed. He still practises as a doctor and bears no grudge against those who did not assist him.

It is interesting to connect Weathers’ experience to Unsworth’s comment about the Americans’ failure to accept mountain climbing. Weathers followed his dream to be a climber despite his wife’s resistance. “Climbing was like life itself . . . nothing had ever hooked Beck to such a degree.” His wife, Peach, “became increasingly concerned about his immersion and the way climbing robbed their family of his presence”. Perhaps Krakauer is also examining the other side of the coin here where such single mindedness, though essential in reaching the Everest summit, can also blind people to the risks involved.

The author now shifts his focus to an interview Weathers gave on his return to the US where he answers the question: “How’d you feel about a reporter being along?” In his reply, partly quoted here, Weathers tells the interviewer: “It added a lot of stress . . . I was concerned that it might drive people further than they wanted to go.” The author lets this comment speak for itself, but you can’t help feeling that in quoting it Krakauer is making amends for his presence.

This, of course, is only one aspect of Krakauer’s wider soul-searching in the book, especially in what he sees as his culpability in the death of Andy Harris.

Krakauer finishes this section, as he does throughout the book, with three short vertical lines. He then draws the chapter to a close with a description of Camp Three, the medical hazards of climbing Everest, and the jockeying for position that so many climbers (at least 161 spread over 16 expeditions) had to negotiate. Given the numbers on the slopes of Everest, it is hardly surprising that tragedy struck.

Author : Paul Byrne is a teacher-librarian at Williamstown High School.

* Source : – http://www.education.theage.com.au/

Everest BC Clinic: basecampmd.com

Everest ER: www.everester.org

** See :

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 5. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz.5. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

The camp sets up service on or around April 1 of each year and remains at EBC until the end of spring climbing season (end of May.)  The experienced medical staff  treats all climbers and staff at EBC for a fee (similar to the operations at Manang and Pheriche) and will treats trekkers visiting base camp as well. In 2004 we collected advance funds from participating teams that allowed unlimited physician consultations to each climber, allowing budgeting for expedition teams and insurance for our clinic operations.  Our new clinic gives climbers and trekkers the freedom to pursue their missions and leave their health care needs to the professionals, and obviates the need to bring along a personal expedition physician. Of course, our mission to provide low cost medical care the native Nepali carries on at the EBC clinic as well.

Our staff is based at EBC and will not climb with any team, even in the event of emergency. Any medical emergencies occurring at advanced camps will be expected to be dealt with by the individual team in the usual manner. In addition, the HRA clinic will not supply teams with medications for their summit attempts. We will, of course, provide any radio or other non-climbing assistance we can from our base in case of emergency.

We hope that the clinic will be a permanent entity at Everest. If there becomes sufficient demand, services may be expanded to fall climbing season as well.
Like wise Dr. Ken Zafren visited Pheriche Aid-post and Everest Base Camp Medical clinic this spring 2004. During this time Dr. Zafren  visited HRA head office, meet the HRA staff and Chairman Mr. Ang Kaji Sherpa and General Secretary Mr. K. D. Khwanju. Dr. Zafren was very happy about the improvement made at the Pheriche Aid-post and the medical clinic at the Everest Base Camp. He thinks that the EBC clinic is another pioneering step of HRA which has become successful by the tireless effort of Dr. Luanne freer.

Volunteers are selected from a pool of previous HRA volunteers at our Manang or Pheriche posts.  For more volunteer information, please follow the link.

For more information about the clinic and to follow our daily progress in base camp, visit our home webpage at www.BaseCampMD.com.

* Source :  – http://www.himalayanrescue.org/

** See :

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 5. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz.5. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

One of the most important tasks of the HRA is to try to prevent deaths from Acute Mountain Sickness that confronts foreign trekkers. For the last thirty-five years, the HRA has helped make a safer Himalaya for tourism. Since its inspection, it has manned a small aid post in the Khumbu village of Pheriche at an altitude of 14,343 feet. The Pheriche aid-post is manned twice yearly during the trekking season by volunteer doctors. Similarly since November 1981 another permanent aid post in Manang, manned by volunteer doctors of HRA has been in operation. The Association has also opened various temporary post during season at various points like the Na Village in Rolwaling, the mouth of the Annapurna Sanctuary, the Gokyo Trail, and at the Gosaikunda Lake area.

HRA has published various pamphlets concerning mountain safety, especially dealing with the prevention of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), providing updated information on AMS as compiled by the HRA’s voluntary doctors, who have gained additional insight from research they have conducted. The HRA pamphlets are available in English, French German, Hebrew and Japanese.

A major credit in the formation of the Association goes to Dr. John Skow, an American national, who in 1973 went up to the Khumbu on completion of his assignment as a Peace Corps volunteer in Nepal and was distressed that many people were dying from Acute Mountain Sickness, and thought that something ought to be done about it. He called together a meeting of officials from the Ministry of Health, some doctors and few other individuals from trekking companies. Another meeting followed with more clear ideas about what to do. The persons from the trekking companies realised that since it was their clients who were affected most should take the initiative. Finally in the third meeting it was decided to form Himalayan Rescue Association with most of the trekking agencies contributing generously in its early days.

<>It was registered as a Nepali Volunteer Organization. Its initial approach to helping reduce the death and disability in the Khumbu region was to station a medical person at Pheriche. The chief function of a person at Pheriche would be to screen trekkers as they came through to help identify problems early, to render aid to those in trouble, to help evacuate people by whatever means were available, and also to do preventive education The first volunteer to work in this capacity was Danielle Laigret, French nurse who went to Pheriche in the fall of 1973.

The main players in the HRA, representing the trekking companies were Tek Chandra Pokharel, who at that time was with Trans Himalaya Trekking, and is now with Himalayan Journeys Late Mike Cheney and Dawa Norbu Sherpa, of Mountain Travel and Robert Rieffel, who was the Manager of Air France in Kathmandu, and author of the first good guide book to Nepal, called “Namaste Nepal”. And it wasn’t too much later that P.P Prasai and Elizabeth Hawley were also involved.

<>Mr. Tek Chandra Pokharel led the association as its founding Chairman from 1973 to 1978. The Association feels indebted for all the hardships he went through in providing special care to HRA during its formative as well as difficult times. It was his initiative that made individuals and institutions accept the Patronship of Himalayan Rescue Association. Without the collective support of its Patrons HRA would not have been able to make it to the position it is today. It is worth mentioning the name of its patrons.

1. Dr, John Skow, USA
2. Mr. Tek C. Pokharel, Nepal
3. Late Col. Jimmy Roberts, Nepal
4. Mr. Jyoti L. Khanna, India
5. Col. P. Ongdi, Nepal
6. Mr. William Reed, USA
7. M/S. Thomas Cook & Sons, UK
8. M/S. Embassy of the USA, Nepal
9. Mr. Jim Edwards, Nepal
10. Mr. Takshi Miyahara, Nepal
11. Prof. Y. Hayata, Japan
12. M/S. British Embassy, Nepal
13. M/S. French Embassy, Nepal

The ge-nerous contribution of the patrons kept the HRA afloat. It was in 1974 that Mr. Pokharel met Prof. Hayata and was able to impress on him to cooperate with HRA for the scientific study of Acute Mountain Sickness and to build some facility at Pheriche. Pheriche was chosen because it was here that most of the acute symptoms of AMS manifested themselves and where most of the death occurred of from where most of the evacuations had been made.

Prof. Hayata contributed more than US$ 50,000 at that time for the construction of the trekkers Aid Post at Pheriche and for the purchase of equipments and medicines. He further supported the Japanese volunteer doctors with round trip airfares from Japan as well as funds for their upkeep for a period of 5 years. Moreover Namka Sherpa, who suceeded Tashi was supported by Prof. Hayata for over six years. Prof. Hayata will forever be remembered as one who visualized the importance of HRA for Nepal as well as for study of AMS. in the Himalaya.

The first doctor involved at the time HRA was officially formed was Dr. John Dickinson, who was an internist at the Shanta Bhawan Hospital (now know as Patan Hospital). He was the first doctor to have handled most of the cases concerning Acute Mountain Sickness not only in Nepal but perhaps in the whole world. Any doctor who wanted to know anything on AMS consulted Dr. Dickinson. He wrote the first brochure on AMS for the Himalayan Resuce Association and no other brochures that have followed will ever match it.

A wonderful Sherpa was hired to man the “Clinic”. This was Tashi, an older Sherpa with incredible wealth of Himalaya mountaineering experience. He was the old breed of Sherpa; incredibly loyal, strong, self-assured, at peace with himself and the world and of impeccable character. He had traveled that whole of Nepal with Tony Hagen.

Another volunteer nurse by the name of Dolly Lefever from the United States was sent up to the clinic later in the fall of 1973, and she stayed until late January 1974. Tashi and she lived in a rented yak herder’s hut with a dirt floor, rough hewed beams and the usual stone masonry without any caulking or mortar. In other words, it was a rather limited accommodation. Dolly found life there in Pheriche a bit difficult, when the cold weather and winter storms set in, she and Tashi moved to Thyangboche, where wood was more plentiful.

The first physician who worked for the HRA was Dr. John Winter, who manned the Yak hut at Pheriche in the fall of 1974. There were quite number of cases of altitude illness and other medical problems, but no one died that had actually made it to the clinic. Dr. winter didn’t does research, but he did make some interesting observation. He felt that the onset of altitude illness was not related to the rate of ascent, and that it must be primarily an individual predisposition. Subsequent studies have shown this not be the case, but his observation on individual predisposition were interesting.

In 1974, Dr. Peter Hackett Trekked through with a Mountain Travel USA group. Peter had been hoping to train paramedics in Yosemite, but had no mountaineering background at that time. He got interested in the problems of AMS, and he decided to stay in Nepal and work at the yak herder’s hut in Pheriche, which he did for three consecutive seasons.

Peter’s first season was in the spring of 1975 and he lived with Tashi in the yak herder’s hut. It was somewhat primitive, and they were rather underfunded. Peter actually lived in a tent in the front yard, since this was preferable to the hut. Trekkers were not keen to come to the hut for advice so instead Tashi and Peter would go to the various lodges to meet the trekkers and talk to them.

Peter treated a lot of people and went out on several rescues. Fortunately nobody died. Peter returned to Nepal in the fall of 1975 and continued to work in the Pheriche, completely as a volunteer. He had been consulting with Dr. john Dickinson in Kathmandu and reading whatever he could find at the Shanta Bhawan Library on the subject.

Later peter was appointed to the position of Medical Director and he began to recruit other doctors to continue to operate the aid post at Pheriche.

As mentioned earlier it was about this time Professor Y. Hayata, of Tokyo Medical College, became quite interested in operating a research facility and clinic in the Khumbu region. Professor Hayata raised money for a high-altitude institute, and negotiated with the Himalayan Rescue Association. They built a clinic at Pheriche in the summer of 1975, and it is still the same clinic HRA is using today.

HRA was run under the able leadership of Mr. P.P. Prasai from 1978 to 1991. Mr. Prasai served as its chairman for 14 years! The association was very well managed during his tenure. Mr. Prasai played an important role in turning HRA into a well-established organization. During his 14 years of service as Chairman, Mr. Prasai contributed a lot in furthering the cause of the association as well as building its firm foundation.

There were four most significant contributions that Mr. Prasai made. First was upgrading of the Pheriche Trekkers Aid Post at the cost of million rupees from HRA’s own resources. His second contribution was the setting up of radio communication between Kathmandu, Pheriche and Manag at the cost of about US$ 5,000.00. The uncertain whether a call for emergency evacuation reached HRA or concerned agencies in time or not was finally over. Then came the establishment of Manang Trekkers Aid-post at the cost of pound sterling 30,000 donated by the British Embassy. Finally an administrative and information centre in Kathmandu was set up with the help of French Embassy which contributed US$ 25,000. Mr. Prasai’s contribution to the HRA shall always be remembered very fondly.

Since the year 1991, Mr. R.P. Pant, yet another energetic trekking organizer took over the charge of HRA and who continuing his responsibility eight years as a Chairman of HRA. A few of the important contribution he has made during this time is taking lead for rescue arrangement for 549 person and 62 dead bodies from Everest region (Gokyo area), Kanchanjunga, Manang in Nov. 1995 avalanche. Thus HRA could boost up its image in the international sector as successful rescue organizer. He made available of Rs.100,000 annual as donation from Nepal Government, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation. Mr. Bikram Neupane is the present Chairman of the HRA and there are several projects such as, Pheriche Aid-post extension and renovation, Lecture hall in Manang, Permanent building in Kathmandu is under construction.

Dr. David Shlim was appointed by HRA to work in Pheriche in spring 1979. In 1980 David did another season at Pheriche, and was appointed the Associate Medical director David came back again in 1982, and still is the only person, other than Peter, to have done three seasons, although several volunteers have done two seasons. Dr. Buddha Basnyat became the Medical Director of the Association in 1992, and Dr. Shlim was appointed as a Medical Advisor by the HRA.

The HRA aid post in Manang was opened in November 1981, in the Nepal Mountaineering Association building at Ongre. In 1985 the HRA moved into a rented building in Manang the beautiful new clinic in Manang, funded by the British, was finished in 1991 and provides a more comfortable inpatient care and better living quarters. Mr. Ivan Goyzo Somlai had very important role in setting up Manang Aid-post.

In 1983 the HRA began double staffing both aid posts, which meant that it could keep a doctor at the post every day of the main trekking seasons. So, these days for doctors a year, often with their spouses and/or travelling companion, gain experience and offer service at the two aid posts.

There must be about 100 doctors who are alumni or the organization, any one can meet a former HRA doctor at almost any big meeting on mountain medicine. Some have even gone on to make careers in the field of mountain medicine.

In 1976 there came 14,000 trekkers to Nepal: by 1986 there were 49,000, during that time, AMS deaths among trekkers remained at 1 per year. So there was four-fold decrease during those years. These days trekking is continuing to expand, drawing less experienced people to trek, and having less experienced leaders to handle emergencies. As a result, the rate of serious AMS and death is increasing again.

The HRA has always provided free or nearly free health care to the local people living in both regions (Pheriche and Manang areas). In both areas, this is the only source of western medical care for the people, and they are very grateful. Service has also been extended to animals when possible! Thus, the HRA has been increase the safety of the trekkers encouraging tourism, which boots the Nepalese economy, and also use the donations and charges to the foreigners to provide much-needed care to the local people. Because rescue is difficult in Nepal, prevention becomes the key activity of the HRA doctors. This eventually evolved into a formal lecture each afternoon of the trekking season. These popular lectures have prevented more serious mountain sickness and deaths.

As mentioned earlier the HRA is a permanent body, which is essentially voluntary and entirely non-profit making. Most of its one hundred odd members are either in the trekking trade or interested in travel within Nepal. They include foreigners, foreign residents, but the majority of members are Nepali nationals. The membership is also open to organizations and agencies.

Every three years the HRA elects a body of nine members Executive Committee.

* Source :  – http://www.himalayanrescue.org/

** See :

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 5. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz.5. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Berg Adventures International – http://www.bergadventures.com/

About Berg Adventures International :

Challenge, personal achievement, cultural learning and our unsurpassed dedication to your adventure travel experience — that’s the Berg Adventures promise.

Founded by world-class guide, educator and expedition leader Wally Berg, Berg Adventures International (BAI) is committed to travel, adventure, and learning.

Wherever we go, our goals for each adventure are the same:

Personal Achievement:

Adventure travel is always humbling. The accomplishments of exploring the far-off places and climbing high peaks can enrich lives far beyond the excitement of reaching a summit or the end of a magnificent journey. The preparation, training and dreaming that precede a great adventure are important parts of the total package. From a Galapagos exploration to the top of Mount Everest, from Marco Polo’s Silk Road to your quest to climb the Seven Summits, we will be with you every step of the way to help you realize your goals.

Cultural Tourism:

A deeply rewarding part of every BAI trip is connecting with the good friends we have made during our decades of trips on every continent. Your BAI adventure will be led by top guides who will help you immerse yourself in the culture around you, not stay apart from it.

Cultural interaction is a big part of a BAI trip.

Solid, Fun Group travel:

Years of expedition life have shown us the value of teamwork while exploring new terrain of the earth and the spirit. Through the intensity of your efforts in wild, demanding places, and the laughter shared along the way, expect to build strong bonds with your teammates.

We also realize that your journey may be intensely personal. With our high ratio of BAI guides and support staff, you can move at your own pace and still be fully engaged in the social framework of the team.

Communication:

We pride ourselves on having seamless communications. Wherever we are in the world, guides are in direct contact with BAI’s home office. Our state-of-the-art equipment ensures clear communications among all team members, too.

The Internet expedition dispatches we’ve pioneered since 1997 are perfect for sharing your personal odyssey. Family, friends, and associates back home can check the BAI web site each day for the latest updates and photographs of your travels. You can access all the reports and pictures from your travels whenever you want by clicking on our permanent archives. Check the Dispatches section of our site for archived dispatches from recent BAI adventures.

Unique Adventure Travel Itineraries:

The highest peak on every continent. The snow-capped summit of Kilimanjaro. Everest Base Camp. The vast wilderness of Antarctica. The Galapagos Islands. The summit of Mount Everest. Whatever your chosen destination, Berg Adventures goes where few others venture. Our personalized, uncompromising dedication to quality sets us apart from all the rest.

We tailor every journey to meet your expectations. Friends and family members sharing a travel adventure will find every aspect of the trip perfectly matched to their individual abilities and interests. Whether it’s group travel, corporate adventures, or charity and fund-raising climbs, we bring uncompromising standards of service and quality to helping you turn your dreams into success.

BAI trips are unique, too, because of what happens before and after our major treks and climbs. Our ascent of Mount Elbrus begins and ends in the captivating Russian city of St. Petersburg. We climb Lobuche Peak before attempting the summit of Ama Dablam. And a Berg Adventures safari is worth the trip to Africa on its own, and a great adventure to share with family and friends after a Kilimanjaro summit climb.

Berg Adventures Knows the Value of Teamwork

Responsible Travel:

In an age of ‘Leave No Trace’ principles, we continue our long-standing commitment to ecologically sensitive, low-impact adventures.

Through cultural awareness and personal connections in the communities we visit, we have established goodwill and long-term relationships with many people around the globe. BAI’s staff members on every continent are well-paid, care about your experience, and are eager to share their cultures with you and draw you into their world.

We hope you’ll make Berg Adventures a part of your next great adventure!

* Source : -http://www.bergadventures.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

British Everest Expeditions during this climbing season.

On http://www.everest1953.co.uk/ – daily dispatches for each expedition, which will provide information on how the teams our doing on the mountain.

Are you climbing Mount Everest next Spring? If so please let me know and I will then add you to these pages here.

Allan Thomas is hoping to climb the North East Ridge of Mount Everest. He will be climbing as a member of Adventure Peaks. Allen is raising money for ‘Cancer Link Aberdeen & North’ (CLAN).

His website is www.climbforclan.co.uk

Ian Rogers is hoping to climb the North East Ridge of Mount Everest. Ian will be raising money for ‘Cancer Research’.

His website is www.climb4life.co.uk

Adele Pennington is the leader for the Jagged Globe team, which she is hoping to climb the South East Ridge of Mount Everest.

There website is www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Kenton Cool will be leading the Dream Guides team via the South East Ridge to the summit of Mount Everest.

There website is www.dream-guides.com

Alan Hinkes is the leader of the Reach Summit team which is hoping to climb the South East Ridge of Mount Everest.

There website is www.reachsummit.com

Stuart Peacock or Dave Pritt will be leading the Adventure Peaks team to the summit of Mount Everest via the South East Ridge route.

There website is www.adventurepeaks.com

Gavin Bate will be leading the Adventure Alternative team to the summit of Mount Everest via the South East Ridge route.

There website is www.adventurealternative.com

Phil Crampton will be leading another Altitude Junkies Expedition to Mount Everest via the South East Ridge.

There website is www.altitudejunkies.com

David Tait is going back to Everest again this Spring hoping to reach the top without the use of artificial oxygen. David will be raising money for the NSPCC.

His website is www.davidtait.com

* more : http://www.everest1953.co.uk/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.